Hooded Eye Makeup: How to Enhance Hooded and Droopy Eyelids with Mascara, Eyeliner, and Eyeshadow

Your natural eye shape is just one of the many facets that make up your distinct beauty, but some shapes require a touch more finesse when it comes to eye makeup.

Not all eye makeup looks complement every shape, and it can be tricky to master eyeshadow for hooded eyes when there is less eyelid space to work with. Similarly, droopy eyelids can pose their own application difficulties because excess skin folds over the eyelids.

So, if you’ve found yourself in a flurry of frustration when applying makeup on your hooded or droopy eyelids, we have you covered. Read on for an in-depth guide to help you achieve an eye makeup look that flatters your eye shape and showcases your makeup prowess.

What are hooded eyes and droopy eyelids?

Hooded eyes are a common eye shape dictated by genetics or, in some cases, ageing skin. Not to be confused with hooded eyes, droopy eyelids are the result of skin losing its firmness and elasticity – typically from ageing.

The easiest way to determine if you have hooded eyes or droopy eyelids is by looking front-on in the mirror with your eyes open. When open, hooded or droopy eyelids have a lack of visible eyelid space and you may notice that the eyelid skin hangs over the eyelid, sometimes down to the upper lash line.

Hooded eye makeup: 7 expert tips

Since the eyelid crease is hidden when eyes are open, makeup for hooded eyes and droopy eyelids is about working with the shape of your eye and enhancing the appearance of your lid space.

While these eye shapes can present some application challenges, there are several tried-and-tested techniques you can use to craft your desired eye makeup looks.

From creating the appearance of a new eyelid crease to crafting thin, sleek lines, explore our tips on how to apply eye makeup for hooded eyes and droopy eyelids below.

1. Prep your eyelids

Due to the extra skin at the crease of the eyelid, droopy eyelids and hooded eyes can be more prone to makeup smudging, transferring, and creasing – so it’s important to prime the lid with a primer or concealer.

If you don’t have an eye primer on hand, concealer makes an excellent substitute. Like an eye primer, applying concealer all over your eyelid can create a smooth, even base that neutralises discolouration and helps eyeshadow appear more vibrant.

Apply a very thin layer of the All Hours Concealer to your eyelid, gently blending into the skin all the way up to the brow bone. Then, set with the All Hours Hyper Finish Powder to prevent creasing.

2. Use eyeshadow to create a 'new' crease

The key to mastering eyeshadow for hooded eyes begins with placement around your eye crease. The right blending tools are instrumental, so reach for a smaller fluffy brush to allow for more precision on the compact surface area of your eyelid.

Blending eyeshadow into your crease works well on round or upturned eyes, however, this shadow can ‘disappear’ on hooded eyes and droopy eyelids once they are fully open. Instead, you can apply your transition shade just outside and above your crease line – you might even find it easier to blend this out with your eyes open so you can see where the shadow will sit.

Reach for your favourite neutral brown in the Couture Mini Clutch for your transition shade and, using a soft sweeping motion, blend the shadow towards your outer corner and up to the brow. This upward-angled placement helps give the appearance of larger eyes.

Now that you have manufactured a new crease, take a small eyeshadow brush and apply a matte dark shade to the outer corners of your eyes for increased depth and lift. You can also apply a light shadow to the inner third of your eyelid to bring light to the area and make it appear larger.

3. Apply a light or shimmer shade to the centre and inner corner of your eyelid

Now that you’ve created a bigger crease and a touch of dimension to your outer corner, you can apply a shimmery shade. Shimmer eyeshadows naturally reflect light, which can make hooded eyes or droopy eyelids appear larger and more open.

Take a pearlescent shade from your Couture Mini Clutch palette and apply to the centre of the eyelid using the tip of your finger. Stick close to the lash line and avoid applying directly on the crease or skin fold – which can lead to eyeshadow separating.

Then, use a small eyeshadow brush or the tip of your pinkie finger to apply a touch of shimmer to your inner eye corner. This will brighten and open the eye further.

4. Stick to thin, sleek eyeliner on the upper lash line

Eyeliner can be the perfect tool to add definition and subtly shape the eye, but on hooded eyes or droopy eyelids, a heavy hand can actually have a ‘shrinking’ effect on the eye.

As a general eyeliner guide for these eye shapes, we recommend thin, sleek lines as close to the upper lash line as possible – or simply tightline your upper lashes. This will keep you from overwhelming the eyelid when your eyes are open and reduce the chance of makeup transfer onto the hood of the eye. We love the Lines Liberated waterproof eye pencil for lining the upper tightline and opening up droopy and hooded eyes.

5. Use the “bat wing” technique for winged eyeliner

Can’t bear to part with your beloved winged liner? Not to worry, because a small wing can still look striking on hooded eyes: just keep it small and avoid touching the crease of your lid, otherwise you could bury that wing under the hood.

The Couture Liquid Eyeliner is going to give you perfect precision to craft your wing, so you can follow our step-by-step guide:

1. Look straight into your mirror (and do not tug your eyelid), then start your wing from the outer corner of your lower lash line.
2. From the tip of the line you have just made, glide your eyeliner towards the lash line to create the outline of your wing – you will pass over the skin fold when you do this.
3. Gently lift your droopy eyelid and connect the small gap in the fold. This line will look diagonal when your eye is closed, but when the eye is open, it will connect over the skin fold.
4. Fill in any remaining gaps in the wing outline you created in step two.

6. Open up the eyes with a lengthening, curling mascara

The best eye makeup for hooded eyes deserves lashes to match, and a little mascara can instantly brighten up your eyes and accentuate their shape.

The Lash Latex Lengthening and Lift-Sculpting Mascara is the ideal mascara for hooded eyes because it promises length and lift – the key to wide, open eyes. Inspired by sleek, form-fitting couture latex, this formula individually wraps each lash to deliver 24-hour lift*, definition, volume, and sculpting.

After sweeping across your top lashes, be sure to capture your bottom lashes as well, because this can help further open and balance the eyes.

*Consumer test on 117 women

7. Groom your brows with a slight arch

Straight brows can emphasise a smaller eyelid surface, so we recommend shaping your brows with a more defined arch. Maintaining a high arch creates more “real estate” between the eye and the brow, giving the illusion of a larger eye and eyelid.

Take your favourite brow pen or pencil and fill in and define your brows as desired. Using a spoolie, brush your brows upward and outwards.

To finish, take the same shimmer shade you used on your inner corner and apply to the brow bone just under your arch. This reflective pop will also help make your hooded eyes or droopy eyelids appear larger and brighter.

If you’re going for a glam hooded eye makeup look, we recommend keeping it simple for the lips. Next, discover our minimalist guide to natural and nude lip looks.